My kids seem jumpier there than someone sitting in a massage chair after a triple espresso. When your kids are acting this way, your near future is a steaming hot mess waiting to happen. Nothing could be easier than losing a small jumpy kid bouncing around a labyrinth of games, which is exactly what happens in the 3. So on top of the fact that Chuck E.
But hey, at least you can rest assured that headquarters already thought about this with their guaranteed creeper-thwarting, hand-stamping system! Kids are not the best at taking turns. Others on the other hand, find drinking water fun, and will drink all day long just for the fun of it, so need designated times for drinking. I do not know what Arizona is sick with, but if it is a urinary tract infection, then that condition will cause her pee very frequently. If that is the case, then the antibiotics should resolve it, but if it does not improve after she finishes the course of antibiotics and she is still peeing frequently, then return to the vet and make sure that the antibiotic actually cleared the infection.
If the sickness is something else, then disregard that last statement. Also she is beautiful. I hope she feels better soon. When Felipe first arrived at our home, he peed on his way outside. We didn't think much of it until he peed again on his away outside. Then, later that night, he also went pee inside, on the carpet before we could take him outside. Are we starting a bad habit already? Hello Vela, At eight weeks of age puppies can only hold their bladders for two to three hours.
Before they understand the concept of holding their bladders until they get outside, I recommend taking them outside every hour at this age unless they are in the crate, in which case they should not be left without a potty break for more than two and a half to three hours. Puppies can generally hold their bladder for the number of hours they are in months plus one. Meaning when Felipe is three months of age he will be able to hold it for four hours during the day.
At night time puppies bladders also go to sleep and they can hold it for longer. The more accidents that you can prevent and the more successes outside that you can facilitate, the quicker he will learn, but all is certainly not lost! He is young and no matter how vigilant you are, there will be mishaps from time to time. Simple learn from his mistakes, and make adjustments to your routine and training as you learn what he needs.
When he starts to have an accident, whisk him outside right away and encourage him to finish peeing there, even if his bladder is empty by then. Do not punish him if you catch him in the act, but you can surprise him and hurry him outside. Clean up the accident with a pet safe cleaner that contains enzymes, which will remove the smell completely. When you take him to go potty, when he goes then give him five small treats, one at a time.
Do this to encourage him to hold his bladder until he gets outside, so that he can exchange his pee for treats out there. If he tends to wander off and pee, then clip his leash to yourself so that he has to stay with you while you walk around or sit down in your home. If he is simply walking too slow in order to get outside in time, then clip a leash to him and quickly walk him outside without stopping, so that he cannot stop and squat to pee.
This months she turns 10 months. She does her business very where in the house. I live by myself on a third floor walk up. I just need help. Should I rip out my carpet and then what do I do from there. I guess the question is after I rip the carpet what do I do? Help please and thank you -brandy. Hello Brandy, Because Baby has had so many accidents in the house she needs to be very strictly crate trained for potty training. Only give her freedom in the house when she has peed outside during the previous two hours. After those two hours are up, put her back into the crate until it is time to take her potty again.
At her age, I would suggest taking her outside to go potty every four hours when you are home. She should be able to go seven to eight hours without peeing when you are not home if she is in the crate, but taking her every four hours when you are home will give her more opportunities to learn to go potty outside and will give her more opportunities to earn freedom outside of the crate. The carpet will need to go and the area surrounding it be cleaned thoroughly with a cleaner that contains enzymes. The enzymes will break down the pee to the point where she will not still smell it and be re-attracted to that area.
Have a dog walker, like a Wag! Walker come to your home midday to take her outside to go potty. Ten hours will be too long for her to hold her bladder every day. The walker can also get some of her energy out for you. While she is learning all of this, spend sometime in the evening putting some of her dog food into a bowl, covering it with water, letting it sit out until the food turns into puffy mush, and then mixing a bit of peanut butter, liver paste, or cheese into the food mush.
Next, stuff the mush into several large hollow Kong toys and put those toys into a bag and freeze them overnight. When you put her into the crate and when the dog walker puts her back into her crate after taking her outside, then grab one of the pre-made Kongs from the freezer and give it to her in the crate. The Kong will melt slowly and give her something pleasant to do in the crate. She will spend most of her time sleeping while you are gone though.
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In the crate she should be able to hold her bladder for the entire day with a midday walker if you take her outside right before you leave and make sure she goes potty, then have a walker come by to take her potty then put her back into the crate, and then take her back outside yourself as soon as you get home. The objective is to limit her freedom whenever her bladder is not empty so that she can no longer have accidents in your home. Once she has developed a habit of peeing only outside, then you can gradually increase the amount of freedom you give her being outside of the crate between potty trips, as long as she remains accident free.
When you take her outside to go potty, tell her to "Go Potty" and bring several treats with you and give her those treats, one at a time, after she goes. This is to motivate her to want to pee only outside because she only gets treats there. This should also help her to learn to go quickly when you take her and tell her to "Go Potty", and to learn to let you know when she needs to go out. Here is an article with more details on how to train her. Follow the "Crate Training" method from that article. Because she is older you can take her outside every four hours when you are home and give her two hours of freedom inside after she goes potty outside, opposed to the shorter times the article describes for a puppy.
While you are gone she should be able to hold her bladder in the crate for up to seven hours, but only if she is in the crate because the crate will help her to want to hold it. Aside from the routine of going out once he wakes up crated at night and when we get home from work, he wont ever tell us he needs to go, he just goes. I have tried to interrupt him and take him out then praise when he finishes outside, but his first thought is to still go in the house. It has been incredibly frustrating to step in wet spots on our carpet and i cant afford to get a steam clean more than once.
I would like to train him to ring bells hung at the front door if possible. Hello Lauren, I would absolutely teach Admiral yo ring a bell. Also, attach one end of a six or eight-foot leash to him and attach the other end to yourself between potty breaks when he is not crated. This will prevent him from sneaking off to go potty inside until he learns to use the bell. When you feel like he understands the bell and wants to ring it to go outside, then let him off of the leash to test whether or not he will ring the bell on his own.
If he rings it to go out, then great! If not, keep him on the leash for longer and test him again in a few days. Make sure that you are cleaning up any accidents with a cleaner that contains enzymes. Anything else will not remove the smell enough for him to not be attracted to pee or poop in that same area again. That goes for high-end cleaners too.
Also avoid using Ammonia containing products in those areas because Ammonia smells like urine to a dog and will encourage him to pee or poop there. Hello Lucy, If she will tolerate an Exercise Pen, then I would suggest using an exercise and litter box training her using the "Exercise Pen" method from the article that I have linked below. To stuff a Kong, place her dog food into a bowl and cover it with water and let it sit out until the food turns into mush. When it turns into mush, mix a little bit of peanut butter with it, and then loosely stuff a medium or large sized Kong or other hollow chew toy with it.
Place the stuffed toy into the freezer and let it freeze. When you leave her in the pen, give her one of these stuffed chew toys to focus on so that she will be less likely to bark. You can also purchase a device called AutoTrainer or PetTutor, that will automatically reward her with pieces of dog food when she remains quiet for a certain amount of time. When you purchase peanut butter make sure that it does not contain Xylitol.
It is extremely toxic to dogs and a common sugar substitute. If the Exercise Pen is not an option, then you will need to deal with the barking so that you can crate her. To do that you will need the help of a professional dog trainer who has experience with electric remote training collars. She will need to be taught the "Quiet" command, introduced to the crate with the door open and treats randomly left inside for her to find to get her used to going in there, and then crated with a Kong.
While she is crated with a food stuffed chew toy, then with the help of the trainer, you will need to set up a camera, go outside, and correct her with the collar for barking. This needs to be done very carefully so get help with this. The collar needs to be fitted correctly, be the right type of collar, and be set to the level that is appropriate for her, and that level is different for every dog. When she becomes quiet, then you can go back inside, calmly reward her, and after ignoring her for a while, let her out while she is calm. If she tries to rush out, then quickly close the door.
Practice opening and closing the door until she will wait inside the crate patiently. When she is waiting patiently, then tell her "Okay" and encourage her to come out. Coming out of the crate calmly sets a precedence for being calm in the crate and respectful of you out of the crate. Let the trainer help you pick out a remote training collar. Many of the cheaper ones are dangerous. Sportdog, Dogtra, Garmin, and E-collar technologies make good quality collars. You will need one that is rated for small dog also.
E-Collar Technologies mini educator collar is rated for dogs 5lbs and up. Your final option is to take her to doggie daycare during the day if you can find one in your area that will work on potty training with her. When we got Milo 2 years ago. At the time Jasper was port trained and was doing good. Unfortunately since Milo was going in the house Jasper thought it was okay and started going in the house also. So I was asking if there is anyway to make sure both dogs go outside to go potty. Jasper is 6 years old. Hello Alanna, If you did not use a cleaner that contained enzymes, then the smell of Milo's urine left behind was probably the main reason that Jasper started going potty inside.
The first step is to purchase a set safe cleaner that contains enzymes and clean up both dog's current and prior accidents with that as best as possible. Your home needs to no longer smell like urine or poop to the dogs.
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Only enzymes break down urine and poop at a protein level, fully removing the smell for dogs' sensitive noses. Unfortunately, not all pet cleaning products contain them. If there is a particular rug or item that the dogs pee or poop on often, then remove that item for now also.
Once you have eliminated the urine scent, then go back to the basics with both dogs.
Ideally, crate train both and treat both like they are puppies on a strict potty training schedule. Do not give them any free time outside of the crate unless they have gone potty outside during the hour prior. When they are out of the crate, either supervise them closely, or if they tend to sneak off, attach them to yourself with a six or eight foot leash while you are home.
If you do not want to supervise them or attach them to yourself at some point, then put them in a crate. If both dogs will hold their bladders while in an Exercise Pen between potty trips, then you can also use that instead or in addition to a crate, but only if they do not have accidents in it. When you take them potty outside, take them on a leash, tell them to "Go Potty" and then give them each five treats, one treat at a time, after they go.
Your goal is to completely break the bad habit that has developed by removing any lingering pee scent that is encouraging them to go potty inside, by limiting their access to the house so that they cannot have an accident, and by rewarding them for peeing outside and showing them where to go. The more strict you are with all of this, the quicker the results should be.
It will be inconvenient but it should be worth the effort and less work in the long run to be strict for a little while. Follow the crate training method or Exercise Pen method from the article that I have linked below. Since your dog's are adults, they should be taken outside every two to two-and-a-half hours while you are at home, but they can probably go up to eight hours in a crate while you are gone if needed during the day. The more frequent potty breaks while you are at home are to ensure that their bladders are never full while they are loose in the house and to give you more opportunities to reward them for peeing and pooping outside.
We've had Molly since she was 8 months old. We started off training her to ring a bell when she had to go outside. She picked that up in less than 24 hours. We haven't used the bell in over 6 months and she has been doing just fine, but occasionally she will just pee a very small amount, even after she just came from outside. The vet said she doesn't have a bladder infection or anything like that, and because of this we kennel her whenever we're not home.
I recently got a new job where I will be gone around nine hours Monday through Friday, and I want her to learn not to pee in the house so she doesn't have to go in her kennel. Any suggestions? Hello Steviea, Does she ever pee a tiny bit in her crate after it has been a long period of time?
The first thing to do is to determine why she is peeing just a little bit sometimes. If she is peeing in similar locations then those locations' smell might be the issue. Purchase a cleaner that contains enzymes. Only enzymes remove the smell or previous urine and poop completely for dog's sensitive noses. Clean the area thoroughly with that spray. If the item can be washed, you can also purchase detergents with enzymes and wash a small rug in that.
If the area cannot be cleaned but can be moved, then move it for now. This will mostly apply to larger rugs. If you have cleaned up current and previous accidents well with an enzymatic spray and her accidents are still occurring, then pay attention to when they are happening. Are they happening when she is excited? Right after you just got home? Or when she gets in trouble? If so it might be excited or submissive peeing, which should only be an issue while you are home and not gone, and will not effect her ability to be free while alone.
When you return home ignore her for a few minutes, and especially do not touch her, until she has calmed down enough for you to leash her up and take her to go potty outside. Once she has peed outside, then you can greet her while she is outside. The key is to keep things calm during times when she is likely to pee out of excitement or submissiveness because that type of peeing is mostly habitual by three years of age and you want to break the habit by preventing accidents from happening and calming her down.
Is there another dog in the home that she competes with? If so she might be marking. If that is the case, then work on her respect for you so that she is not trying to be so dominant at home. You want her to view you as in charge so that she is not trying to be. You will also need to keep her crated until you deal with that underlying issue or she will continue doing it.
If the issue seems to be competition and respect related, then check out the article on listening that I have linked below. She may have an anatomical condition that causes her to leak a little bit of urine out. Unless your vet recommends surgery, there is little you can do about it other than manage it.
To manage it get her used to wearing a reusable fabric diaper. If she is only loosing a tiny bit of urine, then a fabric diaper with a pad on it for absorption should be able to catch any dripping and keep your home clean. You will need to get her used to wearing it while you are at home and teach her to leave it alone by interrupting her whenever she tries to bite at it and praising her and giving her treats whenever you put it on her. When she first wears it around, distract her with fun and games so that she will get used to how it feels without thinking about it.
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If he can learn not to take the diaper off, then you can leave it on her while you are gone, but you will have to be careful to make sure she is not likely to eat it while alone. Once you tackle why she is having accidents, then try setting up a camera and leaving the house for ten to thirty minutes while spying on her from the camera outside where she cannot see you. You can use two tablets or smartphones with Skype or Facetime on mute as a camera. Other good option are video baby monitors, video security cameras with phone apps, and GoPro cameras with the Live app.
Any video monitor on mute will work. You may need to confine her to one main room, like your den, to make sure you can see her with the camera at all times. Spy on her a couple of times over the weekend and if she does well start to give her ten minutes of unsupervised free time after you get home in the evening. Go for a short walk or somewhere close by.
When you return, inspect everything and see if she did alright. If she does well for a week, then increase the time to thirty minutes. After a week of that, then leave her for one to two hours. After a week of being alone for two hours without issue leave her alone for four hours. If she has an accident or destroys something at any point, then she is not ready for freedom, go back to using the crate for three more months and then try again then.
Nine hours is a long time to go without peeing, especially if she has an anatomical bladder issue. Not all dogs will be able to go past seven or eight hours without peeing. Being in the crate asleep or calm makes it easier for her to hold her bladder so she is less likely to have an accident in there.
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I would recommend hiring a dog walking to come once a day, four to five hours into the day to make her more successful with potty training and freedom in the house. Once you have ensured that she can be trusted alone in you home by gradually testing leaving her alone for longer and longer, then you can leave her for the full nine hours with a walking coming by to let her out midday. When the walker comes, instruct him or her to ignore Molly until she calms down a bit to prevent potential submissive or excited peeing. Once she is calm, then the walker can leash her up and take her outside to walk and play.
Hello Christian, There could be a number of reasons she is doing it. I would suggest crate training her and crating her whenever you are in the bedroom without her. If you can also try blocking off her access to that area near the door, then you might be able to leave her out of the crate, but only if she will not pee anywhere else when you do that. Three basic things need to happen. The peeing habit needs to be broken by preventing her from doing it again, she needs to be rewarded when she pees outside to motivate her to hold it until she goes out, and the area needs to be thoroughly cleaned with a cleaner that contains enzymes.
Only enzymes will break down the urine at a molecular level and remove the smell so that she cannot smell it, with her sensitive dog nose. If she can smell where she peed before, then every time she is there and smells it she will be encouraged to pee there again. Not all products that advertise that they are for pets contain enzymes, it should say that it contains them in the ingredients or on the bottle somewhere.
To break the peeing habit, keep her from accessing that area by blocking off the area or crating her when you are in that room. Do this for at least one to two months. After one or two months you can give her access to the door again when you are in the bedroom and set up a camera to spy on her to see if she tries to pee there again. If you see her start to pee, then quickly leave the bedroom and interrupt her peeing and immediately take her outside.
After you do that, block the area off again for a month, and then try again in another month. You can use a baby video monitor, security camera, GoPro with the liveApp, or two smart phone or tablet devices with Skype of Factime on mute, to spy on her with a camera. Any camera that will let you view her live, silently from the bedroom will work.
When you take her outside to pee, go with her to make sure that she is peeing, tell her to "Go Potty", and then reward her with three treats, one at a time, right after she goes. Do this to motivate her to ask when she needs to go outside. You want her to "Save" her pee for going outside so that she can receive treats.
If she is saving her pee, then she will want to pee outside more than inside. If all of this fails, then you might be dealing with Separation Anxiety. If the issue is Separation Anxiety, then she will probably pee in her crate too after being in there for a short amount of time when you crate train her and try putting her in there. To treat Separation Anxiety I recommend hiring a professional trainer to help you. Several things have to be addressed with Separation Anxiety.
Including her response while confined or excluded, her general confidence level and respect for you, and her ability to be independent. Training Oreo is fun but I'm trying to get him to calm down when he is in the vicinity of others and not to use the bathroom in the house. So far, he's doing good because I keep him in the cage but how do I transition him to be out of his cage and not pee on the floor?
Hello Octavia, After Orea has just peed outside, give him forty-five minutes to one hour of free time outside of the crate, but attach him to yourself on a six to eight foot leash. After the hour is up, put him back in the crate until it is time to go potty outside again so that he will not be free while his bladder is full. Also keep him in the crate when you cannot supervise him and have him attached to yourself. While he is with you give him his own toys to chew and work on teaching him the rules of your home.
When he starts to let you know when he needs to go potty outside, then you can increase that hour to four hours very gradually over the coming months. Only increase it if he remains accident free though. If he has an accident take away time until he is not having accidents anymore. Being with you when you can supervise him and his bladder is empty should give him opportunities to learn house manners and how to hold it inside without letting him learn bad behaviors from a lack of supervision. When he can be well behaved on the leash attached to you and is not having accidents in your home, then you can take him off of the leash but keep him in the room with you by blocking off exits.
As he improves, gradually increase how much of your home he can get to. Don't rush this process. It is very important to prevent bad behaviors from becoming lifelong bad habits in the first year or two of your dog's life. Limiting his freedom, being able to show him what to do and not do, and preventing him from getting into things can make the rest of your dog's life easier.
If you prevent most bad habits from forming and work on instilling good ones during the first year to two years of his life, then he will outgrow a lot of his destructive tendencies and be more trustworthy and be able to be given more freedom as an adult because he has not turned those puppy behaviors into lifelong habits.
If he tends to chew on leashes, then look up VirChewLy leashes. They are chew proof. Also, here is a link to an article with are additional tips on potty training with tethering. A combination of tethering and crate training is most effective. Check out the "Tethering" method. Everytime she goes in the house we clean it and put her in her crate for a little while. What are we doing wrong? Hello Meghan, Try the following routine with her instead. Wake up: take her outside to go potty on a leash. Tell her "Go Potty". When she goes, give her four treats, one at a time.
Bring her inside after she goes, feed her breakfast, then take her back outside thirty-minutes after breakfast to poop. If she poops, give her two hours of supervised freedom, out of the crate, if you are at home. If she does not go potty, then put her into the crate, but give her a food stuffed chew toy to make the crate pleasant. In an hour, try taking her potty again. Repeat the trips outside every hour until she goes, putting her back into the crate in between if she does not go. Once she goes potty, then you can give her her two hours of supervised, non-crated freedom.
After the two hours of freedom, put her back into the crate for another two hours, making it a total of four hours since she last went potty outside. When you take her outside after four hours, then clip her leash onto her and hurrying her outside so that she does not have an accident on the way.
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Tell her to "Go Potty" once outside. Slowly walk her around to get things moving, and encourage her to sniff. Keep her on task. If she goes, then give several treats, one at a time and praise her for going, then give her two more hours of freedom. If she does not go potty, then back into the crate for an hour, and try again after the hour. Repeat this every hour until she goes potty outside. Do all of those things the whole day, all day long.
The goal is for her to only be free when her bladder is completely empty so that she cannot have an accident. After four hours, she should need to go potty again, increasing your chances that she will go potty outside when you take her. Don't punish her when she has an accident, especially if you do not catch her mid-pee stream. If you catch her mid-pee, then clap your hands loudly to surprise her and run her outside to go potty there.
If she has an accident and you do not see her, then make a mental note not to give her so much unsupervised, un-crated freedom next time when he bladder is that full. On days when you cannot be home, she can be crated for up to six hours as long as her crate is the correct size and she has not learned to pee in it from too many accidents in there before.
The crate should be big enough for her to lay down, stand, and turn around. It should NOT be big enough for her to pee in one end and then stand in the other end, away from her pee. She will not be motivated to hold her bladder in there if it is too big. If your crate is larger, then you can block the back off with a metal divider for wire crates, or put something chew-proof in the back of the crate to block part of it off.
Whenever you are home, practice the schedule I mentioned above, taking her potty every four hours though, to give her more opportunities to learn and succeed outside. She should not be outside of the crate for longer than two hours after peeing though, or you run the risk of her having an accident.
The more accidents she has, the harder the training will be and the longer it will take, so putting in the extra effort and sticking to the schedule religiously now will save you a lot of work and frustration later. Don't skip the treats and the "Go Potty" command, those will help her learn to go potty faster when you go take her in the future.
Put the treats somewhere out of her reach right by the door that you take her through, so that you will remember to grab them on your way out. Also, resist the temptation to just let her out into the fence to do her business, if you have a fenced yard. She will likely get distracted and never go potty, then when she comes back inside she will have an accident.
Plus you will not be there to teach her "Go Potty" and reward her. You also need to be there and she needs to be on a leash to keep her from playing until after she goes. After she goes, then you can take the leash off if your yard is fenced, and let her play as a reward. Eventually, if you do this, then you can transition to simply letting her into the yard to do her business by herself, if your yard is fenced.
She will know the "Go Potty" command by then, so you can simply tell her to "Go Potty" on her way out the door and she will understand. Hello Rubina, Check out the article that I have linked below. The "Tethering" method and "Crate Training" method tend to be the most effective for older dogs who have had more accidents in the past. Dogs who have already had more accidents tend to need the closer supervision and confinement of a crate or leash attached to you to help them learn to hold their bladders inside.
Make sure your crate does not have anything soft or absorbent in it Primopads. Also, make sure that the crate is just big enough for Pooka to stand up, turn around, and lay down, and not big enough that she can go potty in one end and stand in the other end away from it - too big of a crate won't encourage her to hold her bladder. You can make a wire crate smaller by using a metal divider to block off part of the crate if yours is too large. Since Pooka is older, when crate training, you can take her potty every three hours when home, instead of every hour like you would for a small puppy.
Once she goes potty outside, you can give her 1. When you are gone, she should be able to hold her bladder in the crate for about five hours, and longer after she is potty trained when needed. The strict schedule can be work, but the more accidents you can prevent and the more times you can reward her for going potty outside, the quicker she will learn and the less work it will be in the long run generally.
We adopted Murphy a week ago from a shelter--he was already close to house trained, and for the first few days had no accidents in the house! We take him outside to go potty times a day. We live in an apartment complex, and every time we take him out we have to leash him and take him to the dog area outside, so it's a bit of a process. In the last few days, he has pooped once and peed several times in the apartment!
We have tried taking him out immediately upon catching him in the act we supervise him closely and have caught him every time but I have a couple of worries. One is that it takes so long to actually get him outside in a position for him to pee that he no longer connects the trip outside with his peeing in the house. The other is that he now sees peeing in the house as an opportunity to go out--even if we don't let him play, he still loves to get to go outside as we don't have a backyard he can roam freely in and I'm concerned that the peeing in the house is now a way for him to get to go outside whenever he wants!
The last time he peed in the house, it was less than an hour after the last time I had taken him out and he had peed twice outside! We have been trying to get him out more frequently, and have been cleaning the area immediately with an enzymatic cleaner every time it's been generally in the same spot, close to his food and water. He also sleeps through the night every night and has had no accidents in his crate. I'm not sure what else we can do! Hello Annie, You definitely need to crate train him and use the crate to potty train him starting immediately.
Check out the article that I have linked below and follow the "Crate Training" method. Since he is older you can take him outside every three to four hours. Sooner is fine too. After he goes potty, give him one hour of free time outside of the crate, then put him back into the crate until it is time to take him back outside.
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If he does not go potty when you take him, then take him back inside within ten minutes, put him back into the crate, and try taking him back outside in an hour. Repeat this every hour until he goes potty. The key is to prevent as many accidents as possible by using the crate until he gets used to holding his baldder while inside, and starts to prefer to go potty outside because of the treats you will be giving him for peeing and pooping outside.
How much water is he drinking? Some puppies will drink water just for fun. If he is constantly drinking, then you might need to control his water better and only put it down for him at four designed times per day and after exercise. If his drinking seems normal, then get him checked out for a urinary tract infection.
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