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I also added a half-depth shelf mm higher above the level of the door for some additional storage. Materials: pieces of 8' lengths of 2 x 4 construction lumber One set of sliding doors or bifold, if you prefer. I'm not a professional builder, so I do most of my construction with deck screws rather than nails. They're strong, they pull the lumber together, and best of all, if you muck something up, it's trivial to undo your mistake and do it over correctly without damaging anything.

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For me, that's golden, and well worth the small added expense. Put together the frames according to your design. Make them about 10 mm shorter than your ceiling, or you'll never be able to stand them up! Shim the top with thin wedges of wood. Screw the frame to the ceiling joists or rafters and to the wall. Make sure they're vertical use a plumb bob or a level and perpendicular to the walls testable using a large square or a triangle. You may have to use wedges next to the wall if the wall isn't vertical. The side frame should be screwed to the floor through the bottom plate - easy if you've got a wooden floor, but if you're on a concrete slab as shown here, you'll have to use some concrete anchors.

I just used a couple of rawlplugs and two screws, which with the tight fit provided by the shims at the top, made the whole unit rock-solid. Use a hammer drill with a masonry bit to drill the holes. Luckily, I could do this whole wardrobe with one sheet of drywall.

If yours is bigger, or if you want to finish the inside as well, you'll need two sheets. Measure carefully, and cut the drywall using a utility knife. Score on one side along a straightedge, flip the sheet and it will snap along the line when you gently strike the other side.

Slice through the remaining paper. Fix the pieces of drywall to the frame using drywall screws - don't do the edges near the external bead or near the door opening, as these will be covered by J-shaped metal profiles. Put the profiles up - the door surrounds all the way around the opening see images , and the external 90 degree corner bead. The profiles will secure the drywall along those edges. This could be an instructable in itself, but I will try to keep it short and provide a few handy tips for DIYers. There are tons of places you can go to find instructions on plastering, but most of them are written by pros e.

That can be a problem, because pros give great advice but have different priorities to DIYers. They need to be really fast. They do big jobs. They're good - no, great - with a trowel. However, if you're like me, speed is not an issue - you live in your house, and you want to do a good job more than you want it done quickly. The jobs you do will be small probably one room at a time, max.

You know what a trowel is for, but your expertise level is low. So, here's my advice for a slow, low skill level but nonetheless high quality plastering job Buy the premade plaster. However, you don't want it drying out, and you want to be able to keep coming back to the bucket for all those other little patch jobs you need to do in the future tip: when you've finished one job, shape the plaster flat in the bucket and add water on top.

Pour it off when you use it next - it will keep literally for years if you do this. Start with the easy stuff - the bits near the metal corner beads and trim. You have a straight edge to work off. Thank you for sharing! Hi Hillary! After 10 minutes, the color was beautiful. But after one hour, the color went really dark, and almost looked like paint really thick. Is there a way to stop the reaction when I have the right color, or do I have to wait it out, and sand everything afterwards?

That sounds crazy! Also, I forgot to mention, what you use to seal your wood will change the color a little, too make it less opaque. So try adding some sealer to your test pieces so that you get an accurate representation of the final look. Surprisingly the 2x2s turned out great although i did do 2 coats of black tea on them.

Any suggestions how to darken up the color on the portions of the table that are too light?? Hey, Angelique! And, if you have to do a super light sanding afterward, to see more grain, it will turn out looking great, I think. Just use or grit paper. I truly appreciate all your advice!! I think wax is durable, at least for my family. I have it on our media center, coffee table, and console table.

If the surface will likely encounter lots of liquids and spills, you might test a poly over your oxidized wood — since poly usually brings out more warm tones, you might end up with exactly the color you want by using clear poly. Thanks for your thoughts. I really love your site. It really is much easier to use and it seems to be less shiny, too. Hi Hillary, my mixture was too strong and too blotchy on Douglas Fir Home Depot lumber —I think the blotchiness might have been due to temperature changes in my garage.

But when I have sanded down the fir, the underlying wood is looking very pinkish. I would love the look of the wood that is the background to your site or even lighter. Can you tell me what you would use to tint warmer with Polywhey wipe on? Also, I did not use a tea wash, but I did use a blow torch to bring out the grain. Any concerns about that? Can I apply a tea wash after I have sanded it down and apply a diluted solution? Should I use a brown tint prior to the vinegar solution? Thanks so much for all your helpful info! Do you have recommendations? Thanks again!

See if the store where you buy your VNC products will let you open one of the tints and just dab a bit from the cap onto a white piece of paper so that you can see the undertones.

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Their color chart is not super helpful, unfortunately. I think the only thing that can do that is time in the elements. The hard part will be that your Doug Fir will naturally want to turn dark orange. Just about anything you put on it other than the oxidizing solution or super dark stain is going to bring out those orange tones. You can always add more tint in subsequent coats of polywhey if you need it. Thank you so much for this information.

I want to weather a rustic looking pine cabinet that will be used indoors. Love it! Hillary, thanks so much for your quick reply! Do you know what the tints are made of oil? The blowtorch idea was a good one, but not in combination with the vinegar wash. The areas around the burning turned orange. I have actually used a coarse sander to get down past the burns and oxidization so I can start fresh, but a lot of the dark vinegar oxidization really penetrated which I suppose is a good thing for rustic. Any way of doing that with a super-diluted vinegar wash?

Or is there any natural bleaching method? Thanks again for all your very useful info! I wonder if there is a hydrogen peroxide-based method you could try. Hillary, I have been sanding away at this thing for 2 hours a day for three days, and have not removed all the oxidization, but it looks naturally dirty in the cracks and towards the ends of each plank, which I think may be an advantage. Have you used a white water-base stain over the oxidized wood?

Oh, gosh. I totally feel your pain. I was sanding for a few hours today and know the feeling of super fine sawdust in your eyes and nose. No fun. Thanks for keeping me up to date! Hillary, I have bad news and good news. The waterbased Honeydew Minwax make sure it has a white tint base NOT clear—no matter what the Home Depot rep says does nothing to counteract the salmon color of the Doug fir.

But it is amazing at lightening the oxidization and the sanded blowtorch burns, even the darkest oxidization lightens considerably. It would appear that a heavily diluted vinegar wash showing the slightest grey, followed by a honeydew wash would get close to that Restoration Hardware look. Is there any way to post pics? Send me photos at hillary dot dickman at gmail dot com. Thanks for following up!! I just found your blog today — what an awesome post! Thanks, Cindi! Interacting with readers takes time but it is probably my favorite part of blogging.

I love getting to know like-minded people and hearing about their projects. Wow, what a popular post! I noticed that brushing the tea on again after the vinegar solution blackened it a bit, so in an attempt to get rid of the brown I stuck a tea bag in one of my vinegar solution jars. My boards are also the cheap Lowes whiteboards. In response to your second question, yes, I fill the whole jar. I think my jar is 28 oz? One pad, the rest filled to the top with vinegar.

Thank you so much for you quick reply! You are so kind! Thanks again for the help! Oh, boy! And maybe also holding my breath. I hope it works! I forgot to tell you earlier, I use a Purdy brush to apply my solution. Things are looking good! Do you know what kind of effect putting Natural stain on top of the boards would have? I really like the vibrance of the boards when they are still damp and when it dries it loses a lot of that clarity so I thought maybe a Natural stain would bring it out … or possibly my Rustoleum Satin Poly finish I bought will do the trick?

I know what you mean about the damp look — it highlights the grain a lot more. Your poly will definitely bring out some of that. It could end up bringing out warm tones that you are trying to avoid. Maybe test it on a scrap?

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If you do, let me know how it goes. Hi Kami, I have tried methods with staining, not sure if any of these suggestions help. Usually a piece of furnisher is the same wood if it it is from back in the day, unless it is just a cheap piece someone threw together. Adding a tea bag to any of your solutions will darken it. Let the wood dry between trying, You could try straight vinegar wiping it down and wiping off with a dry rag, or mineral spirits same method.

You will have fumes with the stripper or mineral spirits. Try one, let it dry. If its a soft wood the grains will rise and the texture will become ruff, it will with hard wood too but not as quickly. You can take a fine sandpaper and sand it down. It is good your trying on the bottom, but that is somewhat different then the top as how it was finished the first time if it is an old piece.

I hope something here helps. First is that it is very difficult to control the oxidization process, but a good orbital sander is a huge help, as exhausting as it may be. Also, honeydew white-tinted Minwax is terrific at bringing out the silvery sheen of grey weathered wood. However, I wanted more of a sunbleached look. They type of wood makes a difference.

Pine lends itself to sunbleach more than douglas fir, which is variegated, and has a lot of salmon tones. What I found very useful in creating a truly natural look is using Minwax white pickling rubbed in, which cools off the wood color. Minwax Parchment warms and lightens, which is good for me, but may be too warm for you.

The reason I advocate painting last is because if you are not satisfied, you can sand away and still have the other finish you worked hard for. I hope this helps.

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Mike, thanks so much for your feedback! I agree that pine lends itself better to this treatment. Mike — your project sounds a lot like what I am trying to accomplish. Do you have any pictures that you would be willing to share? Before I commit to a Parchment stain, I would like to see how it might turn out. Julie and Mike thank you for your comments! I actually bought 2 cans of minwax stain before resulting to the home-made solution.

I tested so many paints between Lowes and Sherwin Williams and never even considered Minwax pickling or honeydew mixes, darn it! My bench is very dark now with my first solution. Here we go! I love all the nice people on here! So now I need to strip the legs, and re-finish. If I had started with a plan, and I should have, I would have done things differently.

First of all, I believe Douglas Fir texture and color variation lends itself better to darker stain than lighter stain, so I wish we had used white pine instead. My table is interesting, but is much less uniform than I would have preferred. I ended up using Minwax Parchment more than White pickling because it looked more natural. If I were to go darker grey, I would have stuck with the Minwax Honeydew for silvery highlights.

I am very happy with it, but even with a 60 grit sandpaper, it took a long time to remove the oxidization. Speaking of oxidization, I oxidized the tops of the 2 inch lag screws I used they were galvanized, so you need to sand them, too. Apply with q-tip to avoid the wood. Instant aged metal hardware! First of all — thank you for this post! My husband just made an end table and I stained it using this method and I love it! Is there anything that I could pick up at Home Depot to seal it with besides polyurethane? Thank you for your help. Hi, Haley! Wax would work.

Or, you could use a water-based poly like Minwax Polycrylic they even make it in a spray, which is super easy to apply. Or the new Rustoleum Soft Touch matte finish is a water-based poly and I think it would keep the color of your end table pretty true. Let me know what you end up doing! Thank you for your reply! I bought the Minwax Paste Finishing Wax.

{finishing} How to oxidize wood

Okay after using the Minwax Paste Finishing Wax… coats and buffing.. I really do like it! It turned out wonderfully. How was the smell of the minwax paste? We are making a sewing counter top and several shelves using this method. How did you apply it? Did you do the sanding between each coat?

How many coats did you use? Any tips? I use a foam brush or a purdy brush or a rag for the wipe on version, a purdy brush for the traditional formula. Yes, for sure sand with grit. I love the stuff!!! I know a way to oxidize the wood with the use of potassium permanganate, but did not know your! I understand it before using the compound steel wool and white vinegar, I have to pass the wood with black tea?? I forgot! Hi, Piera! You only need to use tea if the kind of wood you are using is low in tannins ie: whitewood or pine.

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A species like cedar or oak has lots of tannins already. Absolutely love this project! I have started my steel wool and vinegar solution this morning and the hubby just sent me a pic of the console table all put together. I just have two questions; first of all, when you brew your tea, how strong are we talking? How many tea bags to how much water? Secondly, you mentioned a few different kinds of wax.

Where do you purchase the wax that you use? Thanks for all your help! Sorry so long for the reply. Been out of town. Okay, re: tea strength. Really strong? Like 10 tea bags to a 28oz jar? I buy my wax at Woodcrafters, which happens to be really close to my house. Outside while wearing a mask. I am so excited to read about the polywhey option for finishing! Did you use clear or a color to deepen your finish and warm it up a bit? Hey, Jill! I had really, really great luck with the satin wipe on PolyWhey. I put this solution on some red oak and it turned the color to a blackish purple color.

Is there a way to get around this? Oak has super high tannin content and is hard to control. Some turns black even with diluted solution. Let me know if you find something that works! How did your piece turn out? I have an oak bedroom set that I am looking to refinish and came across this site. Any suggestions? I have an oak bedroom set that I would like to refinish and came across this site. Hi Hillary, Browsing the internet I came across your blog and found it quite interesting because I recently started a company and we make wood aging or oxidizing products for both woods high in tannins as well as woods low in tannins.

Thank you and looking forward to your reply. Hi, there! Great to hear from you. It would be SO great to have an oxidizing solution that is more predictable! I will definitely get in touch. If you have a suggestion for which product to use instead, that would be great for my readers to see! Great blog! Love your weathered look technique. Keep up the good work and thank you for blogging it. Where did you purchased those decorative pieces, the black L-shaped corner brackets and the black pieces near the bottom of the legs?

I forgot to asked if the L-brackets you bought were chrome or brass? Did you sand them down a little before you painted them or primer it? They were by Stanley. I mean, to be by the book. I think I did use a coat of primer. Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. You are awesome! Let me know if you have any video editing questions. Hi Hilary! In your blog you stated that you used clear wax with a touch of brown wax.

I believe this would solve my problem, but I am leaning toward using a polyurethane finish. Your blog was awesome for this project! It is a very, very slight difference in color. Good luck Let me know how it goes! Thanks for the reply.. I actually used an artist brush to fill in the spots that needed it. I did it before I saw your reply after brainstorming. My table turned out amazing, I am very stoked about it. Thanks for your awesome site, cant wait to start the next one. Leave a link if you get a chance! What kind of black tea did you use? I know this post is old but I have a question about the wax.

We made this table back in April, oxidized and waxed with just one coat. Will adding more wax help protect it better? Any help would be great!

I really! Really appreciate the fact that you reply to each of these posts! First of all, thanks for the inspiration to build these beautiful pieces. You and ana white have truly made me believe that building anything is possible! I finally finished the x end table and although its not completely square I am pleased with it my first project.

I used the tea, then the steel wool solution it diluted for less than 24 hours and I too have black legs on the table now. Hope it works! Thanks again for all of your details and comments. Have a good weekend! Erin, you are so welcome. I discovered recently by accident that water helps lighten the color, too…although it will probably work differently on different types of wood.

If all else fails, sand it down a bit. Well I have to say that I am trying really hard not to get frustrated! Half of my piece looks beautiful, the other half legs is black and pink striped. Ive sanded and re-stained the pink pieces at least 4 times…… I would advise anyone trying this to make SURE you get all the same type of wood, or sand and stain the pieces before you put the project together. This is definitely more than I wanted to tackle on my first project! Yep, having the same species is key to getting uniform color.

But, when you end up with color variations, it adds to the rustic-ness of the piece. Working with oxidation has helped me to let go. Think of it as therapy? Like, one cup of water to a few tablespoons of the vinegar mixture. Does it make the wood darker? I can buy it local so would prefer to use it. So…I bought some Minwax Polycrylic in satin because I was too rushed to drive downtown to get my usual PolyWhey and as soon as I started using it I remembered why I quit.

It gave me a horrible headache that lasted all day. Thank you for your instructions! That is a great question! Thank you so much. I was wondering if the amount of time between the dried solution and sealer application matters. In other words- do I need to seal as soon as the solutions have dried? Or can I wait days in between? Hey, there. Nope, as long as the oxidizing solution is dry, you should be good to go. Days in between should be no problem. What will be the result if I use the pickling technique, but use varnish rather than wax to seal the wood?

Will varnish impact the integrity of the weathered look? I think it depends on the species of the wood. Any wood will definitely turn darker and less weathered looking with varnish. I would just do some test spots on the underside of the table. Thanks for the reply! I was going to condition the wood is this needed? Does that sound correct? Other than that, yes that sounds right. You could try the Rustoleum Matte Soft Touch finish instead of varnish. If you try it, please let me know how it turns out!

Once oxidized, if I decide I like the texture but want a slightly darker shade, should I put a light stain on or buy some sort of sealer that has a tint to it I was going to go with the Rustoleum matte finish. I love these x table plans! We had a successful finish for our coffee table, but our end table turned more red. Should I sand the end table down and start over?

Ooh, gosh. That is so frustrating. Did you do them at the same time? With the same solution? And build them from the same material? If the answer to all of those is yes, I would guess that you oxidized the coffee table first and then the end table, and as you went the solution became more concentrated.

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  6. That is my only guess. I would sand the end table down and do it again with more water or vinegar in the solution. We finished them 2 weeks apart with newly prepared solutions. Lesson learned for sure! Thanks for your feedback! We had a similar situation. I think someone recommended trying pickling wax. Briwax makes theirs in a pickling formula it just has white pigment added to the wax. Do you have a ratio yet for the grey wash? We appreciate it! I do it without a recipe, but I probably start with something like 1 tablespoon of paint to a cup of water?

    And then add more paint from there if you need it. I prefer the finish I get with hand sanding. I wrap old sanding sponges in new paper sometimes and other times use a store-bought sanding block, depending on how flat I want it vs. I use tinted sealers as sort of a last resort. The stain then sealer approach is better at highlighting grain and looks more authentic and time-worn. Is there a typo in the lenghts of the x boards?

    Am I doing something wrong? Also, I live in the middle of pretty much nowhere and am having a hard time finding a good sealer? Would a minwax satin poly work? Hi, Misty. Hi my husband and I have built the x console table and are finished with the oxidizing step. I basically just need to know what are the last supplies I need to go buy to finish this project up.

    I forgot to add, can I just buy the Vermont poly whey coating you suggested in post and call it good? Staples Crystal Clear Wax will be the best for keeping the color the same. VNC PolyWhey provides more durability but will darken the color. So if the top is more gray like and the bottom is all more a warmer tone should I go with the wax that will darken things to even it out? Yeah, a tinted wax might help even things out but the only way to know for sure is to test it in some inconspicuous spot. I just tried this technique on pine and mine came out much more tan than grey.

    I was hoping for the grey although this was basically a test project. Do you think the type of wood you said you used fir makes a difference in how warm or cool the oxidized wood looks? I did the tea first — is it possible I did too strong or too weak of a tea brew? Thanks for any advice you can give. Thank you also for sharing about the PolyWhey! I plan to pick some up this week! At least that is my experience.

    If you want it to go more grey, you might try going over the oxidized finish with super-watered down grey paint like a whitewash, only a greywash. It takes some experimenting!

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    It really is great stuff. I love the wipe-on for hand-applied situations. I think the regular PolyWhey is better for spraying. Great ideas, I love that you can easily turn wood around and make it look brand new. I tried it and it pretty much undoes all the work you did turning it grey.

    I am in the process of making a Farmhouse Table out of Douglas Fir. People have already asked me where I got the reclaimed wood! How well does the Wipe on PolyWhey protect? I am concerned about waterings rings from glasses, spills, etc. Any opinions or tips are much appreciated!! That is such great news! The wipe on PolyWhey is fantastic.

    If you do at least three coats would be best and sand in between with grit paper, your finish should be great for a dining room table. Thanks for sharing! The 28oz jar is enough for one table with a little leftover, probably. Any thoughts on how to protect an oxidized wood floor in the bathroom without changing the color? Thanks very much in advance! Your other option might be to do a grey wash super watered down grey paint. But…it really comes down to the species of wood. If you find something great, let me know!

    Does not repeat. Share your thoughts with family and friends Next time you go to the store, share your shopping list on Keep and watch as items get checked off in real time. Find what you need, fast Quickly filter and search for notes by color and other attributes like lists with images, audio notes with reminders or just see shared notes. Notes Search notes. Jun, 19, PM. Get extra chairs from the attic. Clean of unknown text. Maybe invites - RSVPs first. Invite inspiration. Always within reach Keep works on your phone, tablet and computer.